10 Things to Consider When Buying buy stainless outdoor table

08 Apr.,2024

 

Gauges

The gauge of your stainless steel basically describes the thickness and, thus, durability of the steel itself; the lower the gauge, the thicker the steel!

  • 18 Gauge = 0.0500 in (1.27mm)

Lighter and less expensive than 16 or 14 gauge, these are often known as ‘budget tables’ and work best as work stations with light duty. This gauge is not ideal for chopping, pounding, or heavy weighted items as it dents and bends easily.
Best for sandwich prep, salad prep, sorting items, general workspace.

  • 16 Gauge  = 0.0625 in (1.59mm)

As a traditional choice cutting the middle between affordability and durability, 16 gauge is generally fit for most needs.
Best for standard duties.

  • 14 Gauge = 0.0781 inches (1.98mm)

For those who want a table that can stand up to heavy use. Often the table of choice for butchers, 14 gauge is the thicker of the options and thus is most durable.
Best for meat prep, tenderizing, institutional.

Types

The different types of stainless steel are determined by the crystalline structure of the steel itself. The differences in structure can determine the steel’s durability and resistance to corrosion.

  • 430 – Cheaper and lower quality. Could stain or rust depending on products used and environmental factors (keep it clean and dry to make it last longer). Close enough to regular steel to be magnetic.
  • 304 – More expensive but higher quality (and what we recommend). Virtually stain/rust-proof. Will clean easily. If you are in a very humid environment or very close to the seashore, then you should go with all stainless steel and preferably 304 to make equipment last longer.

Underspace Use

Stainless steel tables come with two main options for underspace usage: undershelves or open base. Undershelves may be of a lighter gauge or different stainless type. This may be OK as the undershelf doesn’t get nearly the same amount of use, but be sure to check.

**Note! that some lower priced tables come with galvanized legs and/or undershelves. Galvanized coated steel products WILL likely rust in the long term and we don’t recommend it. Know what you’re purchasing. Some imported brands may claim to be one gauge or type of stainless but turn out to be something else.

Shelving

Pros:

  • Can store small appliances or food bins
  • Items lifted off the floor

Cons:

  • Can be difficult to clean floor underneath if the shelf is too close to the ground

Open Base

Pros:

  • Great for those with rolling ingredient bins
  • Easy to clean floor if you remove all items

Cons:

  • Anything stored underneath will have direct contact with the floor

It’s important to note that tables with shelving can come with either stainless steel shelves or galvanized shelves. If you’re opting for the latter option, then the legs are usually also galvanized with plastic bullet feet, making it the more affordable (but less durable) option.

Backsplash

Tables can be positioned in the middle of your kitchen or against a wall. Backsplashes are ideal for against-the-wall placement, as it protects the wall from accumulating food particles and makes cleanup easier. Backsplashes come in typically smaller sizes of 1 ½” for lighter duty tables while heavier tables can range upwards of 10” for backsplash height.

Edges Type

  • Square/Flat

Square edges can jut out and be a nuisance, but they’re ideal when placed against other flat objects.

Best for placing tables against one another.

  • Rounded/Bullnose

Rounded edges make for easier cleaning while square sides make for convenient placement against other items.

Best for single tables.

  • Countertop/Marine

Utilizes a drip-containing ridge around the perimeter of the table (with rounded edges at the corners).

Best for items to be prepared that have juice or liquid (like meats).

Other Options

In addition to the basics, you may have the option to choose from a variety of other accessories and additions: 

  • Casters: The addition of wheels makes the movement of your table and clean up a breeze.
  • Welded-In Hand Sink: Adds convenience to your worktable (but isn’t ideal if you truly need more workspace).
  • Drawers: Adding drawers underneath the tabletop allows the user to store ready-to-use items like utensils.
  • Over shelves and pot racks
  • Just about anything you can think of. But be sure to sign the factory design drawing to confirm that it’s exactly the way you want it.

Tables are typically shipped knocked down and require assembly. You can opt to have the table fully welded and assembled at the factory for a reasonable cost. This will not only save you the hassle of assembling the item(s) but will be much more sturdy.

MAKE SURE IT WILL FIT THROUGH THE DOOR.

Buying your first outdoor furniture is almost as exciting as buying your first house with a garden.  Before you rush out to shop, take the time to figure out the best all-weather pieces for your patio, deck, or porch. I wish had (instead of ending up with outdoor furniture that underwhelms). Learn from my mistakes and avoid making expensive errors when shopping for outdoor furniture.

Here are five things to know before you choose the best outdoor furniture for your home:

1. Cheap furniture may end up costing you more.

Above: A decidedly not-cheap option for outdoor furniture is the well-made Serene line of sustainable teak pieces from Henry Hall Designs. Photograph by Scott Lewis Landscape Architecture, from Favorite Furniture: Sustainable Teak from an Italian Designer.

When you start shopping around on the internet for outdoor furniture, you’ll notice that there’s a huge range in prices. On the high end are retailers including Design Within Reach and Restoration Hardware (both of which sell single lounge chairs that go for upwards of $1,000) and on the low end are sites such as Overstock and Walmart (where entire sectionals can be had for under $700).

Guess where I ended up buying our outdoor furniture? Yep, enticed by the price tag, I went for a faux wicker sectional I spotted on a discount website during a late-night web crawl. It was cheap and not ugly: What more could I ask for?

Well, for starters, I should have asked that our seating wouldn’t slide around every time we sat down. Our sectional was so lightweight that, unless you sat down very gingerly, the seats would slide and the cushions would skate. Our dog, who is not the most graceful animal to begin with, became so wary of the unstable seating that he now nervously paces our deck for several minutes before he gathers the courage to hop up.

The Lesson: Though it may be tempting, don’t automatically go for the cheapest price you can get on outdoor furniture. The really cheap stuff tends to be lightweight and flimsy. That said, we also have this from Ikea, a lightweight but totally well-made lounge chair that I love, so this is by no means a blanket recommendation.

2. Some chair legs are too skinny for decks.

Above: The thin legs on the wrought-iron chairs pose no problems on this patio with pavers. Photograph by Hufton & Crow for Gundry & Ducker, from Steal This Look: A House With Slate Shingle Siding.

Before we bought a house with a yard, we lived in a small rental that had a wood deck. It was our first bit of outdoor space and we loved it, dressing it up with planters, a Weber grill, a lounge chair, and a vintage dining set that we scored at a garage sale. The set was charming and well-made, but the legs on the chairs were skinny, which meant they could easily sink into the gaps between the deck’s wooden planks. We had to be vigilant about placing the chairs just so and constantly had to remind guests to do the same—not exactly the best setup for spontaneity and fun.

The Lesson: If you’re shopping for an outdoor dining set for a wood deck, consider the chair legs and make sure they won’t get trapped in a gap when you pull the chair out.

3. Some outdoor furniture materials may be wrong for your space.

Above: Rattan furniture does best in a covered area, but it’s also fine in mild, dry climates. Photograph from Garden Visit: At Home with Jeweler Kathleen Whitaker in LA.

Here’s a very incomplete list of the types of materials you’ll find when shopping for outdoor furniture: teak, eucalyptus, stainless steel, aluminum, wrought iron, wicker, synthetic resin. Each material has pros and cons that make it ideal for certain climates and outdoor situations and not for others. Consider the various metals, for instance. Aluminum is lightweight, which means it’s not great for areas that can experience high winds. Stainless steel is heavy and low-maintenance, but it can get super-hot when placed under the sun, so it’s not ideal if you are planning to leave it exposed.

10 Things to Consider When Buying buy stainless outdoor table

Your First Outdoor Furniture: 5 Mistakes to Avoid

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